APOLLO'S WAY

Boots on the Ground: My Journey from Ranger to Guide in Selous Game Reserve, Now Nyerere National Park.

By Apollo Kwilabya

Chapter 1: Where the Journey Began

After completing my studies in Wildlife Management at Pasiansi Wildlife Training Institute, I was employed by the Tanzania Wildlife Protection Fund (TWPF) under the Wildlife Division. I was young, full of energy, and eager to serve.

My first posting as a Game Warden was in the northern sector of Selous Game Reserve, based at Matambwe headquarters. I didn’t yet know that this place — wild, vast, and alive — would become the heartbeat of my life.

Selous was not just a workplace. It became my teacher, my test, and my home.

Chapter 2: A Reserve Under Siege

When I arrived, poaching was at its peak. Elephants were being slaughtered for ivory. Snares were everywhere. Even fish from the Rufiji River were poached with poison and illegal nets. It felt like everything was under attack.

We had no fuel, no new uniforms, and sometimes went for months without pay. Ammunition was limited. We lacked even basic supplies. But we showed up. Every single day. We laced our boots, loaded what little gear we had, and walked out into the bush.

Because the animals couldn’t walk away. And someone had to stay.

Chapter 3: The Old Bull with Secrets

One day, on foot patrol, we came across a huge old bull elephant. He was majestic — his tusks long, thick, almost touching the ground. He saw us and froze. But then something incredible happened.

He turned slowly, backed into the bush, and hid his tusks behind some thick vegetation.

That moment shattered me.

I looked at my comrades and said, “This elephant knows his tusks are valuable. He’s hiding them. He’s scared.”

It nearly brought me to tears.

I didn’t want to leave him there. I remember thinking: “I wish I could stay and look after this elephant. I don’t want to leave him alone in this world.”

I still don’t know if he survived. I’ve never forgotten that moment — it lives inside me, a reminder of what we were really fighting for.

Chapter 4: Walking Safaris and the Power of Silence

As time went on, I found myself drawn to another calling — guiding tourists through the wild on foot. I realized that protecting animals also meant educating people.

Walking safaris are unlike anything else. No engine noise. No barriers. Just human beings stepping into the wild with respect and humility.

I’ve seen guests go silent with awe when a herd of elephants passed nearby. I’ve watched fear turn into wonder. And I’ve taught them how to read animal tracks, bird calls, and wind direction — how to listen to nature, not just look at it.

Guiding became an extension of my conservation work. And each safari became a chance to change how people see the world.

Chapter 5: Hunting Tourism — A Controversial Duty

I also served as a supervisor of hunting blocks in Selous — a difficult and often misunderstood responsibility. Legal hunting, when strictly regulated, brings revenue to support protection and community programs. But it requires discipline, transparency, and constant oversight.

I’ve seen the best and worst of it. Some hunters were respectful. Others were not. And I never hesitated to stop a hunt that broke the rules.

Conservation is not black and white. It lives in hard decisions, long debates, and imperfect systems. But we did our best — every day.

Chapter 6: Laughter, Danger, and Survival

Selous also gave us moments of danger and unexpected humor.

Like the day an elephant charged me at Matambwe headquarters. I didn’t have time to think — I ran straight into a nearby house without knocking. The family inside just stared, frozen, as I landed on their floor, gasping.

A few seconds of silence — then we all burst into laughter.

Even now, they joke: “Apollo, are you coming in, or are you waiting for the elephant again?”

Chapter 7: Learning from Legends

I owe everything I know to the old rangers who trained me.

Mzee Mhelela, who could read the bush like scripture. Chonanga, the storyteller who taught me to listen to silence. Kotoku, who drilled into me the importance of discipline. Bobwe, who taught me diplomacy — that your voice is a more powerful tool than your rifle.

They have shaped me. And today I pass on their wisdom to others.

Chapter 8: The Ones Who Stood with Me

I did not walk alone.

I want to honor the men and women who stood beside me when the pay was late, the boots were broken, and the nights were long:

Happygod Maleo, Masemba, Zito aka Nyama Choma, Mjeshi, Sister Rebecca Mdoe, Kauga Laban, Manyanza, Mashiku Kitobelo, Mzee Malunda, Lengaruka Schangwa…

And so many more: Doja Donnie, Bibi Nyama, Emmanuel Silayo, David Temu, Nsereko Suleman, Romanus Sebastian, Mazula, Marc Ruta Kibogoyo, Lazaro Tipap, Sister Alice Chotta, Khamis Usanga, Mzee wa Nyati, Sister Phoibe, Mshua Boy (RIP), Ngolepoi Sikar, Sister Mercy Sommy, Francis Nando, Ally Kotoku, Said (cook), Haji Yusufu, Mwakalesi, Nordine Zacharia, Bihawa Limbanga, Jarphary Kilongo, Pius Nangale, Sister Asha, Casto Menasi (RIP), David Black Sniper, Mzee George, Danny Jacob, Join Kamgisha, Mganga, Betifrida John…

You are not forgotten. You are the true guardians of Tanzania’s wildlife.

Chapter 9: From Ranger to Guide — The Journey Continues

Today, I guide not just tourists, but minds.

I share the story of Selous. The story of poaching and protection. Of old bull elephants, dedicated rangers, and the painful cost of silence. I carry with me everything Selous gave me — every lesson, every scar, every sunrise.

Being a ranger taught me how to fight for wildlife. Being a guide taught me how to speak for it. I will continue to guide and organize safaris across Tanzania’s National Parks and game reserves, sharing the beauty of our wildlife and the importance of conservation.

Dedication

This story is for every ranger who gave their strength, their courage, and their heart to the wild. To the known, the unknown, the remembered, and the fallen. To those who patrol under the stars when no one is watching. To those who walk not for glory, but for duty.

You are the reason Selous (Nyerere National Park) still lives.

With respect, love, and eternal solidarity,

Apollo Kwilabya - Former Game Warden Selous Game Reserve.